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Measure from the point on the blade to the point on the tongueit need to be 14-7/16 inches (residential roofing company). Multiply this by the run of the building. We're using 10 feet in this example, leaving out the overhang. The resulting figure is 144-1/2 inches. We add 12 inches for the overhang to get a last figure of 156-1/2 inches.

Take a look at the rafter board to identify if there is any curve or "crown" in the board. You must make this first pattern rafter on the straightest board you can discover. If there is any curve in the board, lay out the rafter so the crown is up or facing far from you.

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( If the crown were to be placed down, the roofing might eventually droop.) Then set out the rafter as shown on the next page. This example is for a roofing system with an 8/12 pitchPosition the square at the end of the rafter board, with the tongue on your left and dealing with away from you.

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Mark along the behind of the tongue. This is the plumb cut for the roof ridge. Step form the top of this line down the board to identify the line length, or length of the rafter, less the ridge board. This typically is a 2-by or 1-1/2- inch board, so the measurement is less inches.

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Holding the square in the exact same position as previously, mark down to the side of the tongue. This marks the plumb cut at the inside of the house wall for the notch (called a bird's mouth) to seat the rafter one the wall plate. Include the length of the overhang beyond this mark and mark it.

In the example shown this is 12 inches. Cut the rafter at the ridge line and at the overhang line. Then hold the square on the plumb line that marks the bird's mouth. Figure out the wall thickness or depth of the bird's mouth cut and make a mark - commercial roofing contractors. Cut the notch, initially with a handsaw or portable circular saw, and then end up the cut with a handsaw.

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Continue moving down the rafter and marking plumb cuts, including any odd figures. One technique of laying out rafters with a square is called "stepping off." Make a replicate rafter from the pattern. flat roof. Then lay the rafters out on a smooth, flat surface, with a 2-by between them at the ridge line.

You may want to check these on the structure prior to cutting the rest of the rafters. Once you're sure these 2 pattern rafters are correctly cut, mark them as patterns and mark and cut the needed number of rafters. If the structure has hanging or "fly" rafters for the gable ends, cut them also.

Make certain you carefully follow the pattern rafter. A number of years ago I was building a two-story building. One carpenter set out and began to cut the rafters. He ended up being ill from the severe heat of the day and another carpenter took control of for the last 3rd of the rafters.

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I don't know if the second carpenter didn't utilize the pattern rafter, or merely wasn't as accurate, but it was a pricey mistake. The new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes the task of laying out a roof rather easy. I wish I had this tool a number of years and buildings ago.

It comes with its own heavy-duty belt holder that is also developed to hold a carpenter's pencil and the guideline brochure. The brand-new C.H. Hanson Pivot Square makes it eady to lay out rafters. this quality tool includes its own belt pouch and has dividers for the square, an instruciton manual and a carpenter's pencil.

Degrees and rise are marked on a blade connected to the pivoting arm. With the typical increase figures facing you, and the raised fence on the right, the bottom represents the base of the triangle (the run) and the best side the altitude (the increase). The long adjustable edge represents the hypotenuse of the triangle, or the line length.

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Simply adjust the square to the desired pitch and lock in place with the knurled knob. You can then use the square to move the angle for the cut to the lumber. Or you can hold the square in place and utilize it as a tough guide for running a portable circular saw.

Identify the pitch, then you can set a miter saw or compound miter saw to make cuts in degrees that comply with the preferred pitch. The Pivot Square can also be utilized to set out pitches steeper than 12/12, in addition to to lay out hip-valley rafters. These figures are determined on the rear end of the square.



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